In the land of the living skies

As we exit Ontario, the landscape finally changes. The dense forest and lakes are replaced by flat grassland only rarely interrupted by some scattered trees. The guy sitting me behind me leans forward and says “And that’s all you will see now in the next twenty hours”. I just think to myself well we saw forest and lakes for the last thirty hours so that’s fine with me.

If you hate long drives, you have one single choice to get around in Canada, and that’s the plane. Every other means of transport, let it be the train, car or bus, takes a long time. People have warned me that the Greyhound is not the nicest way to explore Canada and now I know what they mean. As much as I’m enjoying the landscape, near fifty hours on a bus can feel like an eternity. The first bus we get on is comfortable and modern, with power plugs everywhere, WiFi and plenty of space. In Sudbury however, we change to another bus which is occupied to the last seat. So I feel like I just landed in heaven when I get off in Regina to meet my friend Nathan from Australia.

Regina, which was originally called Pile of Bones because First Nation hunters piled the bones of buffalos they hunted on the banks of the Wascana Creek, isn’t one of these places where all the backpackers go. Consequently, I meet very few backpackers in the HI Turgeon House in Regina, a converted Muncipal Heritage Property nicely located near Wascana Lake and featuring a balcony just outside of our dorm. But I am not going to spend the night. Nathan has just texted me to let me know we’re heading out to his mum’s caravan in Sherwood Forrest just outside of Regina. After successfully exchanging my Greyhound ticket to another day and waving goodbye to Axelle from France as well as William and Leonard from Quebec who suffered with me through the bus trip, Nathan and his mum Eloise pick me up from the hostel and off we go.

Our first stop is the IPSCO Wildlife Park, a great (and free!) green just outside of Regina. Unexpectedly, I see massive bison close up, snoozing in the sunshine, elks grazing and little prairie dogs (or gophers) fighting and running across the meadow, a mere 15-minute drive from Regina. Then it’s time to head to the campsite. We leave the paved street and drive along a dirt road between endless fields while the sun starts gradually lowering towards the land. Saskatchewan, the province in which Regina is located, has “Land of the living skies” written on their number plate, and I can see why. The sky is endless and fascinating spectacles can be witnessed during thunderstorms and sunsets. On the campsite, Nathan gives me a speedy tour of the huge campground with the club car. Just in time for sunset, we finish on a hill from which we witness an amazing sunset while prairie dogs are running around everywhere, flapping their tails warningly onto the floor, disappearing into their burrows and sticking their heads up again.

As it’s Wing Thursday again, we decide spontaneously to head to the club house for dinner and some beers instead of having dinner at the caravan. And after three flavours of chicken wings, some beers and some amazing nachos from Eloise on cedar wood over the barbecue, I snuggle up in the comfortable bed of the massive caravan, thankful that I can spend the night here instead of in the bus or in the dorm.

For the next day, more countryside is on the agenda. In Eloise’s car, we head out to the Qu’Appelle valley, 60 km east of Regina. Rolling hills of grassland descend into a vast river with waters so clear you can see to the ground. Although the wind is still a bit chilly, I am sad that I don’t have my swimsuit with me for a dip. So I just dip my feet in and wade around, jealously eying the brave swimmers along the shore of the beach before heading on to Fort Qu’Appelle for lunch and to the Milky Way, Regina’s famous ice-creamery.

After taking in the beautiful scenery, I have only one day left to explore Regina so I head down to Wascana Lake for a stroll and to see the parliament building before I enter the free-of-charge Royal Museum of Saskatechwan. I am just in time for the feeding of the local snake species – most of them non-poisonous aside from the rattlesnake which just enjoys a white mouse visibly processing through her body. On the upper floor, the museum has reconstructed the various landscapes and animal life of Saskatchewan. High up on a mountain, a female eagle feeds its young while the male is hunting for more food. In the nocturne forest, a mountain lion is stalking its prey and in another setting, a moose overlooks a snow-capped plain and a frozen lake. When I get out, it has just started raining but I have learnt during our barbecue the night before (featuring three different types of yummy meat) that the weather changes frequently and sure enough, when I get out of the supermarket, the sun is shining again. Saskatchewan is Canada’s sunniest province.

Regina has the typical North American grid structure so getting around is pretty straightforward. It also has a very nice, laid back feel to it. Just next to the hostel is a friendly pub for me to watch Germany play Poland – needless to say I’m the only one watching because Canadians are not that into football. However around the city, I frequently spot the green shirts of the Saskatchewan Roughriders supporters, the much loved local Football team. Rider fans have been referred to as the best fans in the league and this is reflected in the team’s high merchandise sales, which ranks 3^rd behind top teams such as the Toronto Maple Leafs.

At the end of the day I’m sad that I didn’t facture in more time in Saskatchewan as I am packing my bag for another Greyhound trip at 6:50 am to Calgary.

More wildlife

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Things to do in Saskatchewan which I missed 🙁

• The Warehouse District, featuring bars and pubs such as the Bushwakker Brewpub with its own local beers
• Moose Jaw, a little town 65 kilometres west of Regina to explore the tunnels through which Al Capone is said to have smuggled whiskey to and from Chicago
• Saskatoon, Saskatchewan’s biggest city, 238 km north of Regina, called the “Paris of the Prairies”, looking impressive with the South Saskatchewan River crossed by several bridges from the early 1900s
• The Cypress Hill Interprovincial Park, bordering Alberta, with its contrasting landscapes

Might have to come back!