Looking for the Ogopogo

Radium Hot Springs, the Okanagan Valley and Vancouver Island

Because the Stampede has wiped us out, Mona and I have decided not to drive too far. Three hours after leaving Calgary, we’re soaking in Radium Hot Springs. The sun is shining and the warm water is curing our tired limps. Without talking much, we’re just enjoying the moment before heading on to find a spot to sleep. This night, with our wallets emptied from the Stampede, it’s a parking lot next to the road.

Waking up refreshed the next morning to glorious sunshine, we’re re-empowered for our drive on to Kelowna. The city near the big lake enjoys a reputation as a summer party town and is situated in the Okanagan Valley wine region. The lake also supposedly has its own creature living within, called the Ogopogo. Pictured like a crossing between a dragon and a snake but with a friendly smile, the Ogopogo features on many post cards in the surprisingly few tourist shops. Mona and I are strolling around the riverfront in the heat – it’s supposed to be 32 degrees today – before heading into the small town centre for a look around and some cool drinks.

We’ll be spending the night at Wood Lake RV Park and Marina in Lake Land (25 CAD / 14 GBP / 17 EUR), approximately half an hour out of town, as camping in the city is extortionate. By the time we get to the campsite, the sky has opened and a heavy downpour turns the campsite into a swamp. We just have to wait in the car until it’s over before exploring the area. It’s a commercial campsite that resembles a car park. However the huge plus of this place – aside from the low price – is the beautiful lake that features a diving platform which Mona and I make use of in the morning. At long last, on our road trip, we manage to start the morning with a nice swim in the lake and it’s exhilarating.

As Kelowna is so busy and expensive, we decide we get a move on fast but not before we have visited a couple of wineries on the way. We go with the recommendation of our friend Mike from Calgary. Summerhill Winery is first up on the list. The winery itself, offering a scenic view over the vineyards and the lake, features an interesting pyramid building in which their wines are stored. During a tour of the winery (10 CAD / 6 GBP / 7 EUR including tastings) we learn that this structure is supposed to magnify the qualities of the wine; this is the philosophy of the founder Stephen Cipes. Our visit concludes with a tasting of their organic biodynamic wines. The winery is most famous for their sparkling wines which are produced according to the methode traditionelle just like Champaign or the German Sekt. Whilst the sparkling wines are wonderful we don’t feel the same about the Riesling that the friendly tour guide pours and also the Ehrenfelser doesn’t seem very well balanced.

Next up is Mission Hill Family Estate Winery. Despite the fact that the tasting (8 CAD / 4 GBP / 5 EUR) only comprises four wines we somehow end up tasting seven in total served by two very enthusiastic and knowledgeable sommeliers from South Africa and Canada. They’re very curious to hear about our home region and what we think of the Canadian wines so far and manage to impress us with some of the varieties we’re tasting. So much so that we end up buying a 2013 Riesling and a Shiraz from the same year before we head on towards Tsawwassen, where we want to take the ferry to Vancouver Island in the morning.

We drive until we’re getting tired and spot a sign to a Recreational Site along the road. Marquart Lake is a beautiful little campsite just a couple of kilometres off the highway and next to a lake. We can hear the screams of a loon, a kind of duck that also features on the Canadian Dollar piece giving it the nickname “Loonie”. Just like other Recreational Sites in Canada, this one is 12 CAD (7 GBP / 8 EUR) but as there is no ranger around to collect the fee, we spend this night for free.

It’s raining constantly during the night and I keep waking up wondering what the campground will be like after that much rain. But come the morning, the rain has calmed down and the lake is gurgling peacefully right next to us while no other sounds can be heard and the hills in the far distance are still partly covered in fog. I love waking up like this, even if it’s cold like this morning.

The next day takes us to the ferry and up to Vancouver Island. After a quick visit to the cosy little seaside town of Sidney and a bit of grocery shopping, we’re off to find a campsite. Now that we’re a fan of the Recreation Sites, we’re keen on finding some on the island to camp on. In theory this is a great plan but the reality is that we don’t have a concrete description as to where these sites are. On our way to Cowichan Lake, where we supposedly find some Recreation Sites, we can see one sign pointing into the direction of the various sites. When we take what we think is the right turning and still see no further signage after the previously indicated 17 km, we decide to give up and look for another spot. In the meantime it’s 9 pm and we’re tired from all the travelling. Finally, after another half an hour of looking around, we arrive at the beautiful Cowichan River – Stoltz Falls campsite. When the ranger comes to collect our 25 CAD (14 GBP / 17 EUR) fee, he informs us that the nearest recreation site would have been another 60 km away, so we’re glad to have made that call and swear to stop looking for these mysterious sites – and to write to BC Recreation Sites with some improvement suggestions. I might actually apply there to help a bit with the Marketing!

We certainly don’t want to go looking for a place to sleep anymore so as recommended by the ranger, we’re heading towards Ladysmith the next day to enquire in the tourist information about a nice place to stay. It’s our last day on the island and the weather is beautiful so we just want a scenic spot possibly with access to a beach. The friendly man at the tourist information recommends Mermaid Cove, just a short drive from Ladysmith, so that’s where we’re heading, and it turns out to be one of the best recommendations we received on our trip. The peaceful little campsite with the lovely owners Shiobhan and her husband has its own jetty and access to the sea. So we settle for a relaxed day in the sun, climbing the rocks leading into the water and taking a refreshing dip in the chilly waters before drying off on the warm wooden surface of the jetty. And after a quick shower and a hearty dinner, we enjoy the remainder of our cheese platter from the night before with our bottle of Shiraz by the sea, a full moon reflecting in the ocean and the waves crashing gently to the rocks beneath us.

Mona’s last full day in Canada (at least for now) consists of heading back to Vancouver while Horst, our van, stays parked in Vancouver Island so I can come back and see some more without paying the ferry for the car again (which is around 50 CAD one way as opposed to 16 CAD for a pedestrian crossing). This time we have decided to stay in HI Jericho Beach to avoid the extortionate downtown hostel prices and the buzz. It turns out to be a good call because just taking the bus to downtown Vancouver and out to the beach again drains us. 1.5 hours after departing the ferry we’re exhaustedly checking into the spacious hostel only a 2 minute walk to the beach. And after a few cheerful pints in the local pub, the Cove, it’s time for Mona and myself to get ready to say goodbye for now. One last breakfast together at Tim Horton’s and I suddenly find myself on my own again, feeling a bit lost and unsure what to do next.