A work away in a remote Vancouver Island gem
Only a few days after arriving at the magical Soule Creek Lodge in Port Renfrew, I already feel as if I was part of the inventory (well, almost). As I will sadly only be here for just over two weeks, I prefer to do the breakfast shift, which some of the other helpers aren’t too keen on because of the early start at 7:30 am. Doing breakfast generally means having the afternoon off which is great because I’m keen to see as much of the area as possible during my relatively short stay at the lodge. Aside from this, I also really like the interaction with the guests during breakfast.
In contrast to dinner, which is a set menu, the breakfast shift includes taking the orders as there are different options for the cooked breakfast: A choice of one or two eggs prepared according to the guest’s preference; pancakes, French toast or waffles; a meat option such as sausages or bacon as well as a delicious fruit salad and smoothie. After serving the yummy dishes, even though I have breakfast in the staff accommodation myself before starting my shift, I’m usually starving again. Thankfully, the owners are happy for us to have a cooked brekkie of our own after the guests have finished at 9:30 am, before starting with the rooms. Serving dinner is great fun too because the helpers also assist in preparing the plates for the three-course meals and getting some insight into the chefs’ cooking secrets (as well as some delicious gin cocktails from Jon, one of the owners). So I’m helping with the preparation of fresh strawberry compote, pulling apart a roast chicken and making mouth-watering seafood rolls grilled in thin cedar wood plates by tying them together with a thin piece of leek.
At about 10 am, helpers are starting to pack bags with fresh sheets and towels to tidy and prepare the rooms for new guests (“flip”) or to tidy-up the rooms with stay-on guests (“fluff”). The most difficult task of all for me initially is making the beds properly. I’ve never done housekeeping before and I feel bad because my fellow helper Emily, who I’m accompanying on day 1, is able to flip three yurds or rooms by the time I merely manage one.
The weather in Port Renfrew is very unpredictable. It can go from heavy marine fog in the morning, which makes the air feel moist and chilly, to beautiful sunshine and warmth and back within a few hours. I’m keen to make use of every single ray of sun in my free time. On a particular warm day after a very busy time, Tim (one of the two brothers owning the lodge) makes sure to shoo us out of the lodge as soon as our work is done so Emily and I can take the car to explore the area and not miss out on any of the sunshine.
Our first stop is the beach in Port Renfrew. This beautiful spot with its fine, grey sand can be accessed via the simplistic but beautifully located, first nations Pacheedaht Campground, which I will most certainly come back to sooner rather than later (Rates are around 30 CAD (18 GBP / 20 EUR) depending on the season). The wide beach is almost empty when we get there and the whitish driftwood which is scattered all over the sand gives it an eerie atmosphere. Previous visitors have creatively put together some of it to construct shelters from the wind.
The ocean here is really chilly – I usually don’t mind cold ocean water but this takes the cold to a new level. I literally can’t stand staying in the sea for longer than a mere couple of minutes but it’s incredibly refreshing. When Emily and I lie at the beach to enjoy the warm late summer sun after a dip in the sea, we notice a little seal swimming past the shoreline and sticking its head out just where I swam a few moments ago. We follow the seal continuing its way along the shoreline on our way back to the car to carry on exploring the area.
Our next stop is Fairy Lake, featuring a beautiful lake-side BC Recreation campsite and also providing boat access, picnic benches, fishing, swimming and hiking trails (15 CAD / 9 GBP / 10 EUR). However, what makes this lake so special is a tiny tree that is growing on a tree trunk in the middle of the lake. It almost looks like the tree just wanted to be on its own, away from the other trees in the forest, amidst the waterlilies in the calm, mirror-like lake. Doing its own thing. I like the little rebel 🙂
We only stop here briefly to enjoy this rare view before we head a little further on to Lizard Lake, again featuring its own BC Recreation campsite – we want to go swimming and this lake is just a nicer swimming lake according to Emily. And she’s right! The water is beautifully warm, and there is a jetty from the beach into the lake. The lake also features boat access, fishing and hiking and camping is the same rate as Fairy Lake. I enjoy the warm, clear water, the surrounding forest and the silence of the area, which is only interrupted by happy kids enjoying this beautiful summer day.
