When I came over to Australia ten years ago, I staid in Sydney’s laid-back beach suburb of Coogee during my first few days whilst getting over my jetlag. One of the first things I did in terms of sightseeing was the coastal walk between Coogee and Bondi, Australia’s most famous beach. Now that I’m lucky to be back for a 6-week assignment with work, I went out to re-visit this beautiful stretch.
The first time I hiked from Coogee to Bondi, I made the classic “European-coming-to-Australia”-mistake: I decided that because it was overcast, I wouldn’t need any sunscreen. I was wearing shorts and it was a warm but not overly sunny day with a light breeze. Only towards the end of the walk, I realised that the skin on my legs was feeling a bit sour, but it was when I went into the sea at Bondi beach that did I realised this was one hell of a sunburn. And so it happened that I started my time in Australia looking like I was wearing red then tanned stockings for a few weeks.
After this first of many lessons Australia taught me, I made sure to layer on the sunscreen for my second time on this coastal walk ten years later. Although I arrived in Sydney late April, when Australia is well and truly heading into winter, it was still warm enough to wear t-shirts and shorts. I chose a gorgeously sunny Sunday to make my way to Coogee on the bus from Chippendale, where I’m staying this time around.
Whereas the walk wasn’t busy at all last time, when I went on a weekday, it was a very different scenario this time around. Lots of people walked or ran the path, which made it somewhat less relaxing but not one bit less beautiful than ten years ago.
The hike commences in the relaxed beach suburb of Coogee. Heading north along the beach and up towards the green stretch, one can already enjoy the wonderful views of this cliff-top walk across the coastline and the ocean. I did the hike in the afternoon and timed it so that I would arrive in Bondi not too long before sunset as the light during this time of day is just beautiful.
The path winds its way along little coves and beaches such as the tiny Gordon’s Bay or Clovelly Beach, which also features the salt-water-filled Clovelly Ocean Pool. Just before Bronte Beach, the path goes along the monumental Waverly Cemetery, which was established in 1877 and is home to the tombs of many prominent Australians. When I got to Bronte Beach, a free yoga session was in full swing. I was annoyed that I didn’t have the right clothing with me to join in. Of all the beaches I saw that day, Bronte Beach was my favourite. It’s much quieter than nearby Bondi but none the less stunning.
Walking past some incredible rock formations, I got to Bondi as planned just before sunset to see some surfers enjoying the evening breeze.
