Living on Sydney’s North Shore
Aside from Manly, visitors to Sydney don’t necessarily have the north shore on their radar. I certainly didn’t when I started my flat hunt late last year. It was only by chance that I checked out a few flats “on the other side” because my workmate Matt suggested I do so – and I was smitten straight away. Even though places like Kirribilli and Neutral Bay are only a few minutes drive over the Harbour Bridge from the Central Business District (CBD), it’s a totally different vibe altogether on the north shore – and flats are usually slightly better value too.
When I was looking for longer term accommodation late last year, I initially focussed on places in the city. I was thinking about the bustling neighbourhoods of Surry Hills, Darlinghurst or Chippendale, where I staid before and which I really like. But then I thought, now that I’m finally living near the ocean – don’t I want to be closer to it, rather than being stuck in the city in summer? I checked out the beautiful bays close to the CBD, like Rose Bay, Rushcutters Bay and Double Bay as well as Bondi Junction and Bondi Beach in the east – but they were either overpriced, too far from work or both. I looked at only two flats on the north shore and fell in love with the area and the second one I looked at straight away.
“I didn’t think you’d be a north shore girl”, my coworker Nat said with a smile when I told her about my find. What I learnt in this process is that, in Sydney, you’re either a north shore or a city person, and as a rule of thumb, once you choose either, you’re never going to move from one to the other. It’s true that the city versus the north shore have a very different vibe, even though they’re not far from one another: The city is bustling and busy, even places like Bondi Beach can feel quite full on. The north shore is funny because you literally just cross the Harbour Bridge, opposite the CBD – and you’re in another world.
I can’t really hear much from my little flat at all, which I just love after returning from working in the busy CBD. I can choose between taking the bus, the train or the ferry to work. In fairness, I could even walk or cycle! When I take the bus or the train, the brief walk to the respective stations takes me through a little park, which is right next to my house, overlooking a beautiful bay. Busses and trains are cheap (just over 2 AUD / 1 GBP / 1.20 EUR one-way), however if I really want to treat myself, I take the ferry (around 6 AUD / 3 GBP / 3.60 EUR).
The ferry wharf is also just a short walk from my house, and going there gives me the ultimate holiday vibe. A couple of great restaurants are situated just a few steps up the road from the ferry wharf, namely TaTa Café and Gateway North Indian Cuisine. Thelma & Louise, a café right next to the wharf doesn’t only do great coffee and treats but also overlooks Hayes Street Beach, a little residential beach that is perfect for an after work dip. I love getting back from work, putting on my swim suit and going there for a couple of hours to relax while looking out onto the water and watching the anchored boats gently bounce about in the waves. Walking back home in my flip-flops, wrapped up in a towel, literally makes me feel like I’m on a never-ending holiday.
Neutral Bay is very hilly, which makes it very scenic but this also means that it’s a bit of a climb to get up to Neutral Bay Village. This area offers plenty of opportunities for shopping and going out. Two big Woolworth supermarkets are in close proximity to each other, as well as many second hand stores, funnily enough (I’ve not seen this many charity shops in the whole of Sydney otherwise). There are countless cafes and restaurants: There’s a 24-hour eatery, which looks promising after a hefty night out in the bars or at The Oaks. This popular and large pub features a massive beer garden that stretches around a huge tree decorated with hundreds if not thousands of fairy lights. The Oaks is famous for their steak and definitely a place not to miss.
Back towards the city, Kirribilli also features many bars, restaurants and places to go out, of which the Kirribilli Hotel and the The Botanist look particularly promising. The Kirribilli Markets are on several times a month underneath the arches of the Harbour Bridge and the views from Kirribilli Point towards the city and the opera house are simply breath taking.
Another suburb on the north shore neighbouring Neutral Bay and Kirribilli is North Sydney, also featuring a mini-CBD of it’s own (albeit not as crowded). If you look at the city from places like e.g. Rose Bay, it actually looks like the CBD is divided in two parts with the Harbour Bridge in the middle. North Sydney also features a bit of a special place – The Greens Bowls Club, offering stunning views and great bowling plus very atmospheric inside and outside bars that are perfect for some lazy cocktails and a game of bowling on a Sunday afternoon.
Some more recommendations for restaurants and cafes – some of which I have yet to check out in the neighbourhood:
- Ken’s Kissa – Japanese Breakfast
- Ride On Pizzeria – Pizza & Pasta
- Against the Grid – Cafe
- Nikaido – Japanese BBQ
