Saarburg and the Saar region

I was born and spent all my childhood and teenage years, up until I went studying in my early twenties, in the Saar region between Saarburg and Konz. When I moved to London, and I found it hard to settle in the big city, I often compared this region to Hobbiton – the place in Lord of the Rings where the hobbits are from. Not that people have hairy feet where I’m from – it’s just very peaceful and scenic, plus there are a lot of social gatherings and cheerful wine festivals. After two years of not being able to travel back due to COVID, I was very moved and grateful when I finally landed back in the homeland a couple of months ago.

Just to clarify, there is a difference between the Saar region in Rhineland Palatinate (where I’m from) and the Saarland (another one of the sixteen partly sovereign federated states). The Saarland begins in Saarhölzbach, 20 km south of Saarburg. The Saar region I’m talking about in this post extends from just south of Saarburg to Konz, where I went to school. In Konz, the Saar region joins up with the Obermosel region, which extends from Konz towards Luxembourg along the Mosel. Konz is situated at the confluence of the rivers Saar and Mosel, approx. 8 km southwest of Trier. Therefore, this holiday and wine region is also commonly referred to as the “Saar-Obermosel”.

A region for wine lovers

The rivers of Saar and Mosel have shaped the landscape of the Saar-Obermosel region with its steep, south-facing slate slopes. For over 2000 years, wine has been grown in the region. Riesling is the predominant grape in the Saar region and thanks to the distinct flavour given to the wine by the fertile, mineral soil and the relatively cool climate, Saarriesling wines are acknowledged by global experts as some of the best white wines in the world. In fact, the world’s most expensive Riesling wine last year has once again originated from the prestigious winery of Egon Müller, located in the village of Wiltingen. The global average for a bottle of his Trockenbeerenauslese (375 ml) is a whooping 14,170 US$.

Other, predominantly white grape varieties in the Saar region include Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris), Kerner, Müller-Thurgau / Rivaner and Weißer Burgunder (Pinot Blanc). There are also some red wine varieties such as Blauer Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Dornfelder. Many wineries are scattered throughout the villages and towns of Serrig, Saarburg, Irsch, Ockfen, Ayl, Schoden, Wiltingen, Kanzem and Wawern, as well as Konz and affiliated townships. The Saar region is part of the Mosel wine region in Germany, which was renamed in 2007 from “Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” to simply “Mosel”.

My parents are winegrowers and long-standing members of the local cooperative, Moselland, which produces the wine from the grapes of several local members under the Moselland brand. Quite a few of my friends have renowned wineries in the region or are in some other shape of form involved in the wine business, i.e. working for a winery, or doing walking wine tasting tours in the area. A list of all local wineries can be found here (in German only) – make sure to tap onto their cellar door when you’re in the region or hit me up for recommendations!

Summer is the season for joyful and wineful festivities in the region. Many villages and towns have their own wine festival, the biggest one in the region being the Saarweinfest in Saarburg, which is usually taking place the first weekend of September. But there’s many other festivities such as the Saar Riesling Sommer (usually last weekend in August) and Open Cellar Days in the various villages throughout summer. 

Other activities

Cycling

There are sheer endless cycle paths all along the Saar and Mosel / Obermosel. With only one train per hour leaving from our village in each direction and next to no busses, the bike was literally how I got to places on my own, e.g. visiting friends in other villages. And those are beautiful rides, along the river and with the vineyards and rolling hills left and right. I couldn’t count how many times I’ve cycled the path between Konz and Saarburg (approx. 16 km one way). The path is relatively even, so it’s an easy trail to go on, and can be extended into various directions, i.e. going beyond Saarburg into the direction of Mettlach and ultimately Saarbrücken, or heading via Konz towards Trier and further along the Mosel towards Koblenz, or heading from Konz towards Luxembourg along the Obermosel. See an overview of the different cycle routes along the Saar-Obermosel here (in German only).

Hiking

I have to admit that, for whatever weird reason, I only discovered my passion for hiking after moving away from Germany. Since then, I have made sure to rediscover my home region in hiking boots during visits (except for the last couple of years of course). There are lots of premium hiking paths, such as the Moselsteig (Mosel climb), which runs in 24 sections (or legs) over 365 km between Perl (Obermosel) and Koblenz (confluence of the rivers Mosel and Rhine). Closer to my home region, there is the (even longer) Saar-Hunsrück Steig (Saar-Hunsrück Climb), featuring 27 legs over 410 km from Perl to Trier as well as countless “Traumschleifen” (dream loops). These are circular hiking trails in the Saar Hunsrück nature park.

Boating or stand-up paddling

Exploring the region is also beautiful by boat. My family has a canoe which comfortably fits three people, so my dad, my uncle and I made sure to take it out this summer. Visitors who might not have their own boat can hire them in many places, e.g. at Kanu Saarfari in Schoden, and enjoy a cold beverage at the Multikulti after, a comfortable and casual meeting point for cyclists, residents and visitors alike, situated right next to the river Saar. Don’t forget to try a Viez there – a traditional apple wine from the region, which can be mixed with coke, lemonade or soda (I prefer the latter option).

Saarburg

The scenic town of Saarburg is named after the castle which was constructed by Graf Siegfried of Luxembourg in 964. The ruins of the castle still proudly overlook the city and can be visited via a steep ascent from the town centre. Saarburg was occupied by troops from Luxembourg from 1945 to 1948 and by the French until 1955. Up until 2002, the local bell foundry Glockengießerei Mabilion manufactured bronze bells for many cathedrals in Germany. My brother completed his apprenticeship as a metal constructor there. Dating back to the 1770s, this piece of local history is now a museum.

Saarburg has a beautiful, small but very quaint town centre. Flanked by cobbled streets which feature many restaurants with outdoor seating facilities, the river Leuk flows through the city and makes a spectacular drop of approximately 20 metres before joining the larger Saar that bisects the town. Recently, some adventurous kayakers went viral by kayaking down said waterfall for the first time ever. The “Mühlenmuseum” (mill museum), a former grain mill dating back to the 13^th century, can be viewed from up top of the waterfall and is open to visitors from 2 pm – 5 pm each day subject to prior registration.  

When in town, make sure to enjoy a spaghetti ice cream at Eiscafé Cortina. It’s just vanilla ice cream pressed in spaghetti shape onto a bit of whipped cream, topped with strawberry sauce and white chocolate flakes (simulating the parmesan), but I think it’s the best ice cream specialty there is. This ice cream parlour isn’t as scenic as the one located at the waterfall, but you get the best ice cream in Saarburg here.

Close to the town centre in Saarburg, a chairlift takes visitors on a scenic ride up to the Warsberg, a hill of 335 metres above sea level. From here, visitors can enjoy panoramic views over the town, the vineyards and other hills in the area. Moreover, the “Sommerrodelbahn” (summer sledge) is a fun activity for the entire family.