Our last stop on our fabulous road trip along the south coast of Western Australia was the quaint little town of Denmark. Located just over 400 km south of Perth along the namesake River, Denmark was established in its current format in 1895 and still features historic buildings. The indigenous Noongar people living there prior to European settlers called the river and the inlet Kwoorabup, which means “place of the black wallaby” (kwoor). Nowadays Denmark is popular in particular amongst alternative life-stylers and early retirees. As part of the Great Southern Wine Region, the area has received critical acclaim. The Mediterranean climate with warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters as well as the rich karri loam provide ideal growing conditions for particularly white grape varieties such as Riesling and Chardonnay, but also reds. Agriculture is very prevalent in the region, as is tourism, with the beaches and rock formations of Williams Bay National Park, an abundance of Karri, Tingle, Jarrah, Sheoak forests as well as the Tree Top Walk on Denmark’s doorstep.
Staying in Denmark
After all that camping, we’d decided to treat ourselves for the last three nights of our trip with the charming little Eaglemont Cottages (130 AUD per night / couple in low season for a cottage when booking directly, extra people cost 20 AUD each). These picturesque chalets accommodate up to four people and are run by a friendly couple, Doug and Jan, who really put their heart into the cosy accommodation. A basket filled with firewood, fire lighters and paper sit next to the door, ready to light up the cosy fireplace in the living room area. The outside area also features a little outside table and chairs as well as a barbecue. Inside, a basket with fresh bread, fresh eggs, homemade yam and muffins was waiting for us on arrival. It was very welcoming, tidy, clean and comfy. We even had electric blankets in bed to keep us nice and snug overnight. There’s lots of outdoor space for bush walking too, which makes it the perfect little getaway for some downtime and relaxation.
The cottages are located 11 minutes driving from Denmark, and only a few minutes to Williams Bay National Park. The town with a population of just under 3000 is situated around the Denmark River and features many cafes and eateries, as well as quirky little shops and an astonishing amount of yoga practices for such a small place.
The Tea House just next to the river is a café and bookshop with a beautiful little garden, where we stopped for a cuppa. Japanese eatery Hiroko Café was incredibly busy – always a good sign – as we were meandering past while figuring out what to have for lunch. In the end up, we opted for some pub grub on the sunny terrace of the large Denmark Tavern on our way out of town. That’s a great choice if you like good value traditional pub food and large portions. The Denmark Hotel in the town centre has been the local watering hole since 1920 and frequently features live music on weekends.
Just down the road from our accommodation is an Alpaca and Animal farm where people can come up close with a variety of animals including koalas, alpacas, rabbits, chickens and joeys. We didn’t make it there this time but it’s definitely on our list for the next visit.
Wine, beer and chocolate tastings in Denmark
Many see Margaret River as the go-to destination in Western Australia as far as wineries, breweries and other delicatessen go. This visit has really changed my mind about that. We were surprised about the sheer amount and quality of wineries and other culinary places to explore in Denmark. Additionally, the Denmark region was less busy overall, and it seems to attract a slightly different, more laid-back type of people, at least at this time of the year in early December.
Our first point of call was the Silverstream winery. I’ve been wanting to go there since my sister and her partner worked for free accommodation there for a month, over ten years ago. The new cellar door is currently only open upon request, due to staff shortages that wineries experience in relation to COVID. Sadly, we heard this from many places down south. We gave them a call to make sure they’re open, and sampled and purchased their delicious Pet Nat, a naturally fermented blend of Merlot and Viognier in the Petillant Naturel style. Aromas of plum and violets with a very dry finish make this a perfect summer beverage.
The Lake House was next on our list. We again sampled quite a few of their delicious drops (well, mostly me, because Liam had volunteered to drive) and walked away with some of their 2019 Shiraz Cabernet from the “He said, She said” range. The Lake House features a highly reputable restaurant with a beautiful outdoors space which should be booked for lunch as spots are limited and popular. The cellar door also sells a wide range of produce from the Vinofood range, as well as skincare products from WineSpa.
Singlefile Winery is another beautiful spot next to a lake, with a lot of land where people can just sit on the grass or benches overlooking the rolling hills. The classy cellar door features plush furniture and a dark, elegant yet rustic interior. We sampled some Riesling and ultimately walked away with some of their delicious Chardonnay. I’m not a big Chardonnay drinker but theirs is very subtle, with a hint of caramel. It doesn’t have a strong oak note, which I prefer too.
I was quite tipsy after all these wine tastings, so we decided it was time to switch gears and call into Boston Brewing for some food (and beer). The vast brewery features a lot of indoor and outdoor space, delicious craft beers and yummy pub food. It’s very family oriented with little tables and benches for kids, a large playground, and a little basketball feature. We really enjoyed the casual vibe and views over the vineyards. They sell some pretty cool promotional clothing too, albeit not cheap.
Another place worth visiting is the Denmark Chocolate Company – probably my favourite of its kind in Western Australia. In contrast to other chocolate places, this one features a “chocolate lounge” outside on their scenic veranda, where visitors can enjoy tastings of fine, handmade chocolates, local wines, selected imported beers and a range of liqueurs. The self-walk chocolate timeline in their garden is another interesting feature with some nuggets of information that I really enjoyed.
Williams Bay National Park
The small National Park of Williams Bay is only 15 km west of Denmark and features spectacular coastal scenery. It’s very convenient to get to, first of all because in contrast to other national parks, the drive into the park isn’t very long, and secondly, because the roads are in top condition. The National Park was closed for much of last year because many roads were redone. Unfortunately, this and the fact that the main sights are only a short walk from the car park means it can get very busy there over the summer months. Early December was the perfect time to go to beat the crowds, however the water was admittedly still a little chilly that time of the year.
The most popular areas at the at the eastern side of the park include Greens Pool, Elephant Rocks and Waterfall Beach. At Greens Pool in particular, granite boulders create a natural reef (like a pool, as the name says) which protects swimmers from the Great Southern Ocean. Elephant Rocks nearby literally look like an elephant lying in the water. Waterfall Beach features a little freshwater drop, which isn’t a common side in hot and dry Western Australia. The wilder and less dramatic features along the coast of the western side include Parry Beach – where we stayed a while back with our dog – Parry Inlet, Mazoletti Beach and Hillier Bay.
Fishing is popular along the rocks and beaches, with many different species found, including King George whiting, herring, Australian salmon, and mulloway.
