Sea and the city

In and around Nova Scotia’s capital Halifax

Still in the Bear on the lake hostel in Aberdeen, most hostel guests have in the meantime gathered around the large living room table to play some cards. Matt has put on some relaxing music and we’re all cuddling up on the sofas. It seems hard to believe that only yesterday, I was paddling on Lake Kejimkujik, getting sunburned (on one arm only?!) in my t-shirt because now, only four hours away from the lake, it has become chilly and foggy. In a way this is good because I have got some serious catching up on my blogging to do. I’ll just start where I left off last time – in Halifax.

It isn’t only the pancake breakfast which the HI Hostel in Halifax offers on Sundays that convinces us to extend our stay for another night. After a visit of the Farmer’s market to sample some local goodies, our stroll leads us past the historic buildings along the waterfront and through busy Spring Garden Road, featuring a variety of pubs and restaurants for a good night out. The Citadel Hill, overlooking downtown Halifax with its office buildings, is home to the Citadel fortress and the Halifax Town Clock, which has been in operation in its original state since its construction in London in 1803. Despite the fact that it’s pre-season in Nova Scotia for tourists, the city is buzzing with people. Next to the Technical University of Nova Scotia on Morris Street, a dance group of children and teenagers is performing. Golf-enthusiasts can train their handicap from the shore to a little island in the sea at the waterfront. And at night time too, Halifax has a nice vibe. From pubs over bars to nightclubs, the city has something for everyone and all venues are in walking distance.

Only an hour drive from Halifax is the beautiful and famous lighthouse of Peggy Cove. On our way there, we stop over in Prospect Bay which has been recommended to us by the hostel reception. The cosy little fishing village is providing a nice contrast to the cities I have seen in Canada so far. With the little wooden houses and the rocks leading down to the seaside, it really reminds me of the little archipelagos just off the coast of Gothenburg in Sweden. After walking around there for a while, we don’t really think that Peggy Cove can possibly be any more beautiful – but we’re wrong. The famous white and red lighthouse is situated on top of a vast field of rocks. We jump and climb all the way across the rocks until the lighthouse comes closer and closer and the sun starts going down.

We somehow always manage to get out for dinner later than we thought so we’re yet again starving when we get to our pub of choice for the night, Your Father’s Moustache, again following Mike’s recommendation. Lisa and I are really keen to have lobster, which seems to be on the menu of just about every pub or restaurant (even McDonalds is offering a McLobster in Halifax – I’m not kidding!) however not this time. Instead we’re going for some very tasty fish and chips respectively fish cakes and, of course, some local beers.

The next day, right after some yummy buttermilk pancakes, Lisa and I head off to Kejimkujik National Park, also called Keji (and definitely easier to pronounce that way). The inland unit of the 404 m2 park is classified a National Historic Site of Canada and the park is named after the largest lake within the park, Kejimkujik lake. We’re heading towards Jakes Landing to rent some canoes for the day.

We spend the entire day canoeing on the lake, the silence in the National Park only interrupted here and there by a bird song, the distant voices of other visitors and the sound of the canoe gliding over the waters. When we get hungry, we just stop at a lonely beach and pull the canoe out of the water before stretching out in the sand using our rescue vests as pillows, watching a big yellow butterfly swing by and enjoying the sunshine.

Tired and happy, we head over to Mahone Bay for the night. We’re staying in Kiwi Kaboodle Backpackers right between Mahone Bay and Lunenburg. Greg, our host, only has one other guest because it’s still ahead of season. The cosy little house offers two dormitories on the first floor and two bathrooms as well as a large, comfortable combined kitchen and living area downstairs complete with guitar, books and games. Greg is originally from New Zealand (hence the name Kiwi Kaboodle) and is probably the most forthcoming host I have ever had. When we ask if there is any coffee he heads out to get some and the same happens when we realise the computer standing in the living room area isn’t working: He literally just walks in with another PC. For the morning, free pancake mix is provided for a yummy breakfast and of course, maple syrup.

And after a stop-over in colourful little Lunenburg, which we have to cut short because of the bad weather, we head over to Halifax to pick up Matt and Shula from the HI hostel and the four of us make our way to Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail.

Tips in and around Halifax:

• According to Matt, a local in Halifax who we met in the pub, the following bars and pubs should not be missed on a night out in Halifax:
  • The Stillwell, a bar featuring only local brews
  • The Argyle, a lively pub with a terrace nearby Citadel Hill
  • Durty Nelly’s, wild and Irish
  • The Dome, if one fancies a club night
    After all, according to the book “Weird Canada” which my amazing work colleagues have given me as a leaving gift, Halifax has the most bars per capita ratio in the world!
• In Lunenburg, apparently one of the best places to have lobster, go to The Saltshaker for a fantastic lobster roll
• In Keji, I can really recommend to rent a canoe and discover the vast lake with its beautiful beaches. Full-day rental at Jakes Landing is only 40 $ (22 GBP / 28 EUR).