A road trip to Scotland – Part IV
From the Isle of Skye via Kyle of Lochalsh and Loch Ness to the Cairngorms
Our next and final stop on our journey through Scotland is the Cairngorms National Park south of Inverness. Established in 2003, it is the largest national park in the British Isles and it’s home to five of the six highest mountains in Scotland. We’re a bit sad to leave the beautiful Isle of Skye and wonder if the trip can get any better than this after all the beautiful scenery. But already the journey towards Inverness provides us with plenty of spectacular sites to enjoy.
Right after the Skybridge, taking us from the Isle of Skye to the mainland, Kyle of Lochalsh welcomes us with the stunning Eilean Donan Castle, situated on the namesake, tidal island close to the village of Dornie and connected to the mainland via a medieval-looking footbridge. The castle originates from the 13th century and its 20-year reconstruction was terminated in 1932. Since then, the castle has made many appearances in photographs and films, such as the “Highlander”-movies as well as “James Bond – The world is not enough”.
Another 13th century beauty reopened to the public during the 20th century is Urquart Castle situated right beside Loch Ness. Probably also due to its popular location and some people hoping to get a better glimpse of Nessie – the famous sea creature rumoured to reside in this Loch but probably non-existing according to the informative video presentations at the Loch Ness Centre and Exhibition – this is one of the most visited castles in Scotland. Due to the overcrowded parking lot, we only stay for a good look at the scenic ruins before we head on to our final destination for the day – Aviemore in the Cairngorms – to end a long day of driving with a solid meal of Mac ‘n Cheese (Macaroni and Cheese) as well as Bangers and Mash (sausages with potato mash) accompanied by some local brews on the pleasantly warm and commendably comfy patio of Mackenzie’s Highland Inn.
Hiking the Meall a’ Bhuachaille circuit
After spending a restful night in the functional but clean and satisfying SYHA which offers optional breakfast for an additional 5 GBP (5.38 EUR) on top of the 25 GBP (26.92 EUR) room rate for a 6-bed dormitory, we embark bright and early to explore the Cairngorms National Park, an area which has been recommended to me by a friend and Scotland-enthusiast. It’s another beautiful day and we head to the Glenmore Visitor Centre, the starting point for several circular hikes in the area. Meall a’ Bhuachaille is gaelic for “Mount of the Herdsman” because each summer, herders from farms once dotted around the hill would bring their animals up to enjoy the lush grass.
The path up to the summit is signposted with orange-marked poles. We commence the ascent on a lush forest path. Soon the forest becomes sparser and makes view to large ferns, followed by bushy grass plains with purple heather flowering everywhere. We’re heading beyond the treeline on a steep, stony path now and behind us, Loch Morlich is clearly visible in the distance. The higher up we get, the steeper the path becomes and suddenly we notice that a lot of the stones which are scattered all over the path are covered with a glittering layer. The Cairngorms are rich in minerals – predominantly quartz but also beryl and topaz occur in the area – but our totally scientific explanation is that it’s fairy dust. After all we will descend to Lochan Uaine, which, due to its green tint is often referred to in literature as “Fairy Lake”.
At the summit of Meall a’ Bhuachaille, at 810 metres, we find a cairn providing shelter from the strong winds. We can see into all directions for miles, with Loch Morlich to one side and several lakes waiting for us on our descent. We’re hiking through a beautiful windy path down to Lochan Uaine, where we take a break and enjoy the silence and the beauty of the crystal clear lake surrounded by pine trees.
The friendly man at the visitor centre had recommended us that we divert from the Meall a’ Bhuachaille circuit just after the lake to follow the (blue) Rhyvoan Trail back instead. This means another short ascent through a narrow forest trail but we’re rewarded again with wonderful views of the Cairngorm mountain range. And 3.5 hours after our last Scottish hike for this time, I reward myself with a baked potato in the little café which is not only charming but also serves excellent, low-priced food and treats for hungry hikers.
The hunt for the Scotch egg
Back in Edinburgh that evening, we’re pretty wiped out from our road trip but determined to find the one speciality that we haven’t come across on our journey just yet: A scotch egg. This is a boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat, coated in bread crumbs and baked or deep-fried. However, to my complete surprise, none of the pubs on the Royale Mile have a scotch egg on the menu. Baffled, I enter a pub to ask behind the counter if they do a scotch egg. The friendly bar lady explains to me that they don’t and she doesn’t know where I could find one as scotch eggs are seen to be more of a daytime thing (her words). Other guests, overhearing the conversation, recommend that I go to Sainsbury’s (a supermarket chain in the UK) to buy a (cold) scotch egg. I’m disappointed. I don’t want to eat a cold scotch egg from the supermarket. We decide that we’re too hungry now to keep looking and enter The Mitre Bar because the food menu sounds appealing to us. As we’ll have to wait for a table, we take a seat in the bar area of the large pub and while we’re looking at the beer menu, my eyes rest upon the bar snack menu which includes – I can’t believe it – the sought-after scotch egg! So our starter for the night is – of course – a couple of pints and a scotch egg each, which is freshly prepared and tastes just perfect with the yolk still runny while the egg white is hard. We end our lucky trip with a few pints in the Scotsman’s Lounge right next to the Edinburgh Backpackers, where Acoustic David is live performing everything from Bruce Springsteen to Tom Petty with a unique, smoky voice and abundant acoustic guitar skills.
Love your story. My husband has promised me a trip to Scotland. My Mother’s Mother was from Scotland. she WAs a Campbell. I am looking forward to finding Mitre’s Bar and a Scotch Egg.
Thank you so much!! I really appreciate your feedback and glad you liked the post!