Miller Creek and Campbell River

When my last work contract ended in summer, I didn’t have to think very long about what to do next. The options were starting the next contract right away or taking some time off. Even as I left Vancouver in February, I was hoping I could be back in summer, so I decided that right after Mona and I would come back from Scotland, I’d pay another visit to one of the most beautiful cities in the world and take that opportunity to explore more of Vancouver Island at the same time.

Landing back in the city I lived in for most of last year and that I have missed very much over the last few months was a very surreal experience. With a mix of nostalgia and excitement, I did and still do sometimes feel like I never really left. After a lot of much-anticipated time to relax at the beach, catching up with my friends, witnessing some incredible sunsets at the beaches and after a really fun time at the annual Pride Parade, I was ready to get over to the island.

See some impressions of the Vancouver summer time here:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Vancouver Island is just a short 1.5 hour ferry ride away from the mainland, and I’m falling more in love with this magical place every time I go. In contrast to the city of Vancouver, which gets extremely busy in summer time, the island has a lot of remote, peaceful beaches and mountains to simply enjoy the abundant nature. It is still advisable to book ahead in July and August though unless you can be flexible.

I had already paid a deposit on a wickedcamper last year before I actually decided to buy a car instead. Due to the late cancellation I couldn’t get a refund on the deposit however wickedcampers allows to transfer the deposit to another booking up to one year after the initial booking. The company is well-known in backpacker destinations such as Australia, New Zealand and North America for its eye-catching fleet of campervans, usually older models containing all the equipment needed for camping minus bedding or sleeping bags and decorated with quirky graffiti’s. My van has “Stoned” written all across the side, to my own, my friends’ and former work mates’ amusement. Returning to my van at the ferry terminal with a coffee, ready to board, another driver who is parked next to me tells me that he just took a picture with himself and the van and he’s hoping that that’s ok with me. I laugh and let him know that it’s a rental van and I didn’t spray it myself with this statement.

“Stoney” – as I called my wickedcamper – at Miller Creek
Stoney’s kitchen
My bed

Some lucky people see whales during the ferry crossing so I usually spend all the time on deck, keeping my eyes peeled across the ocean but no whales make an appearance for me today. I do however bump into a lovely couple, Anne and Duwy, who have a farm north of Edmonton. We chat about life in the city versus the countryside and it must be quite obvious that I’m single for the farmer points out to me ten minutes into the conversation that there’s an abundance of good-looking, single farmers in that area but not enough women and he suggests I should move there! I just love these random conversations, especially when travelling on my own.

I haven’t booked any accommodation on the island as I’m hoping to be able to find a nice BC Recreation Site. These sites are remote, very often in a beautiful area, basic, inexpensive and they’re allocated on a first-come-first-serve basis, i.e. they cannot be booked ahead. I looked up some of the sites on the internet before I left to make sure I know where they are and how accessible they are for a van. Miller Creek is my favourite option, it’s only a couple of kilometres off the highway on gravel road. I’m lucky to be able to secure the last spot there. For only 15 CAD (9.30 GBP / 10.18 EUR), I’m camping near a beautiful, quiet and peaceful lake. Upon paying the caretaker, he also tells me about a little remote beach just a 2-minute walk from the campsite so that’s where I’m going to spend the evening. The water is pleasant, not too cold but not too hot either, and there is literally no one around. Little waves are gently rolling to the shore. I enjoy a swim and the beautiful sunset over the lake before I heat up a quick can of stew over the gas burner provided with the van and enjoy a couple of cans of beer with a book before I retreat to my van.

My own beach
Evening swim
Sunset over Miller Creek
Dinner time when you’re too hungry to cook properly

The next day starts with a morning swim in the lake before I embark the short drive to Elk Falls. I’m expecting a short walk to the falls and back but little do I know what is waiting for me. From the parking, it is indeed just a short walk down to the falls which can be witnessed from top of the canyon as well as from a suspension bridge, offering stunning views. Right next to the falls I can spot a rock pool with incredibly fresh looking water. It’s very hot today so I really wouldn’t mind a swim in the beautiful pool but I doubt it can be accessed. I start hiking the River Loop Trail right next to the river that feeds the falls and surprisingly, although warning signs make it clear that the river can overflow anytime, it is possible to access the rock pool so I’m hopping in for a short bath in the refreshing water before I proceed with the hike.

The clear river enables me to see right to the ground as the hike proceeds along the stream which widens at times, making it look like a lake. I hike past Deer Falls, another waterfall along the path, before the loop winds back to the parking lot through the forest. Amazed by this beautiful scenery, I’m back at the van within the space of 3 hours and I continue my journey north, towards Port Hardy on Vancouver Island’s east coast.

Elk Falls
Elk Falls and Canyon
Rock pool at Elk Falls
Elk Falls Suspension Bridge
Deer Falls
Elk River

Leave a Reply