Hiking from Botanical Beach to Parkinson Creek
Despite the fact that the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail and I had some issues on our first encounter, I have decided that I’m not going to give up on the idea of hiking it just yet. I want us to part on good terms for this time, until we meet again. So, just a couple of days before my time at the lodge sadly comes to an end, Jon gives me a lift to Botanical Beach where I will hike the first (or last, depending on the perspective) leg of the Juan de Fuca Trail to Parkinson Creek.
It’s perfect hiking weather – sunny with a bit of cloud and not too hot – and I have managed again to get to Botanical Beach at low tide. The tidal pools – natural rock pools filled with sea water that are in parts inhabited by marine life – are perfectly visible and I curiously wander from one to the other just like last time, not one bit less fascinated and hoping in vain to see a starfish this time around. I continue eastbound along the beach before I make my way towards the forest, where the trail is.
I meet a Canadian couple and ask them where I can merge onto the trail. They point me in the right direction and enthusiastically inform me that they have just seen a black bear with a cub on the rocks down by the beach just a bit further ahead and they hope that I’ll see it too. I’m not actually sure I want to run into a black bear mother with her cub, which can potentially be a dangerous encounter as the females become very protective of their young. Feeling a bit queasy, I keep walking, singing and clapping in order not to surprise and scare the bear, with my bear spray handily attached to the hip belt of my backpack.
What’s bear spray? Is that a thing?
Oh yes that is a thing. Bear spray is like really strong pepper spray and has shown to be effective when a bear attacks. In this case, once the bear is close (5-8 metres ideally), spray in short bursts directly into the bear’s face. Do make sure that you’re not spraying against the wind direction because that would just mean that the spray would land on you and it’s REALLY uncomfortable. However, only use bear spray when the bear attacks. The best option is to try and avoid an encounter. For more detail on what to do when a bear attacks or how to behave around a bear, follow this link.
I’m thinking that I should have really asked for more information as to where exactly they saw the bears, considering that there is beach and rocks pretty much everywhere along this hiking trail. But sure enough, around fifteen minutes later, I see the two of them, mother and cub, meandering about the rocks on the beach whilst I’m on the forest path. I stand in awe, watching as the mother keeps walking while the little one is tumbling behind her whilst trying to play and walk at the same time. My attempts to take a decent picture aren’t long-lived as the mother bear suddenly changes direction and starts strolling towards the forest – and towards me. I decide it’s a good time to vacate the spot and I continue along the trail, clapping and singing like a crazywoman.
It’s a week day and the summer holidays are over, and I literally only meet a handful of other hikers on the 9 km stretch from Botanical Beach to Parkinson Creek, which takes me about 3.5 hours. This is a moderate section of the path and I’m finding it a lot less challenging than the previous stretch between Sombrio and China Beach, which is classified as more difficult. I’m mostly hiking through the lush, green forest, singing to myself and keeping my eyes peeled on the ground not to fall over any of the roots from the trees.
Often, the forest widens and hikers can enjoy the wonderful ocean views, hike down to continue their walk at the beach or pass a creek flowing from the forest into the ocean. When I get to Parkinson Creek, from where I’m planning to hitch hike back to the lodge (which is not allowed everywhere on Vancouver Island but is very common in this part of the island), I’m somewhat displeased to see that the gravel road up to the main road is another 4 km long. Sighing, I make my way up to the road when a car filled with hippies stops next to me and offers me a ride. Thankful, I climb into the car and just half an hour later, I’m sat at the marina back in Port Renfrew, enjoying a “Company”-Lager and the yummiest fries with gravy I have ever had. As promised, I call the lodge to let them know that I made it back to Port Renfrew safe and sound as otherwise, Jon would have come out looking for me.
Bear stories
Back at the lodge, over dinner, I tell everyone about my encounter with the bear and my attempts to be loud frequently during the hike so any wildlife knows about my presence and hopefully, stays well clear of me. On this occasion, Jon tells me that he and his brother Tim both worked up in Juneau, in Alaska, for a few seasons, grilling salmon outside in a wooden shelter at the sea front. My mouth is wide open when I listen to him having to fight off black bears that came out of the woodwork, smelling the delicious salmon and wanting a bite. Jon also shows us a photo album featuring the little hut they used for grilling the salmon and the various bear encounters staff had. They would frequently open the shelter where the salmon was grilled to find bears having camped in there overnight, again attracted by the salmon smell. The chef – Jon in this case – had to be protected by others carrying sticks and bear spray to get rid of the bears. In addition to the photos, Jon also kept emails he wrote to his family during that time in the album for guests and visitors of the lodge to read, which I highly recommend. The best stories are the ones written by life itself. I can’t stop questioning Jon about his time in Alaska and I know for a fact where I’ll be heading sooner rather than later. The evening ends with some local beers which Jon generously sponsors in the staff accommodation, another game of “Cards against Humanity” – and more stories of Scarface and the other bears up in Juneau.
And with that, my magical time in Port Renfrew comes to an end, for now – because I’m pretty sure that I’ll be back.
