During the few months that I spent in England this summer, I probably went to the coast more often than in an entire year before. Knowing that I would move to Australia, I just wanted to make sure to say goodbye properly to this beautiful country that has given me so much during the last eight years.
I came to England with absolutely no expectations. I struggled a bit in the first couple of years of being in London; it’s a very big city and I am and have always been a country girl at heart. Therefore, it was always important to me to get out of the city and to explore England’s breath-taking countryside.
Eight years later, I’m looking back at some truly amazing times inside and outside of London that have really shaped who am I today and during which I met many wonderful people. As a homage to this island with all its beauty, character and uniqueness, and because many who travel to England just go to London, I’ve summed up my favourite places along the south coast in this post – from the west to the east.
Cornwall
Cornwall is the most south-western part of England. The more west you will get, the narrower the streets will become, often consisting of just one lane, featuring high bushes to the left and right. It’s a slow-paced driving experience as you’ll have to be aware of vehicles coming from the opposite direction. Lay-bys allow for cars to pull in while they let others pass. These narrow roads lead visitors to scenic little townships with breath-taking bays and coastal walks. The north coast of Cornwall is also a great spot for surfing and everywhere, visitors can enjoy great local fish and chips, craft beer, and comfortable little cafes with local delicacies such as the famous cream tea.
Where to camp
- Treen Farm campsite near Pencanze
- Treveren Farm Campsite near Pencanze
- Pleasant Stream Farm Camping, St. Austell
Read more about Cornwall in this post
Dartmoor
Dartmoor in the county of Devon is not only a very convenient stopover on the way to or from Cornwall. With it’s rough and wide grazing land, wild ponies, wooded valleys and huge stone formations often dunked in the mist, it’s the perfect spot for some peace and quiet and to enjoy plenty of hiking opportunities.
Dartmoor’s dramatic landscape inspired many myths and stories, such as ‘The Hound of the Baskerville’, involving the legend of a fearsome, diabolical hound of supernatural origin.
Where to stay
- YHA hostel in Dartmoor
- Camp in Bellever Car Park, a scenic little spot next to a stream, where overnight stays are allowed (at zero cost)
Read more about Dartmoor in this post
Dorset
Dorset is in many ways very similar to Cornwall but it certainly is a lot closer to London. Featuring many old and charming little villages with beautiful pubs, dramatic coastal hikes and beautiful beaches and coves, it makes for a wonderful weekend-getaway from the city as well as a great stopover on a roadtrip. There are many campsites and usually, the closest pub is in walking distance, which means that even if the weather isn’t suitable for a campsite barbecue, there’s still a comfortable source for food and drink nearby.
Lyme Regis marks the western end of the county of Dorset and is sometimes referred to as “The Pearl of Dorset”. It features charming lanes and a pebbled seaside and it’s in particular popular for its fossil finds on the so-called “Jurassic Coast” – a World Heritage Site.
My favourite area in Dorset is the stretch between Weymouth and Swanage, on the eastern border or the county. Durdle Door, a famous arch in the water is right next to Man-O’-War beach, probably my favourite bay in whole of England: Tucked underneath the steep, curved cliffs, this beach slightly protected from the wind and the crystal-clear, turquoise waters are usually a bit calmer and warmer than in other places in England. Unfortunately other people see that too so it’s always busy; hence it’s best to go on a weekday or off-season.
Great farm campsites in Dorset:
- Hook Farm Camping (Lyme Regis)
- Acton Fields Camping, Swanage
- Tom’s Field Camping, Swanage
- Eweleaze Farm Camping (August only. If this one is full, they also have Shortlake Farm and Northdown Farm), Osmington
Read more about Dorset in this post
Isle of Wight
The Isle of Wight just off the south coast of England is known for its mild climate, coastal scenery, and verdant landscape of fields, downland and chines. The island is designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. I went there twice this year, once to the Isle of Wight Festival, which in 1970 was the largest rock music event ever held. It’s also the happiest festival I have ever been to, and there’s something for everybody.
The second time, I went on a roadtrip around the island.
Besides the dramatic coastline, which offers dramatic hikes all around the island, charming townships such as Shanklin and Ventnor are as cosy and welcoming as it gets. All over the island, farms invite guests to visit and sample some local produce from alcohol and jams over meat and cheeses, garlic and more. Due to the mild climate, the vegetation is rather Mediterranean. The botanical gardens in Ventnor are like a world of its own.
Where to stay:
- Cliff Hall Hotel features a bar and garden, both overlooking the ocean
The New Forest
The New Forest is one of the largest remaining tracts of unenclosed pasture land, heathland and forest in Southern England, covering southwest Hampshire and southeast Wiltshire. Cattle, ponies and donkeys roam throughout the open heath and much of the woodland, and it is largely their grazing that maintains the open character of the Forest. They are also frequently seen in the Forest villages, where home and shop owners must take care to keep them out of gardens and shops. When Mona and I went to the New Forest in summer, cows grazing all around our tent woke us up. The New Forest pony is one of the indigenous horse breeds of the British Isles, and is one of the New Forest’s most famous attractions – most of the Forest ponies are of this breed, but there are also some Shetlands and their crossbreeds.
There are several farms and vineyards in the New Forest, which invite guests to sample and buy some of their produce. We visited Setley Ridge Vineyard and their Dry White wine enthused us to much that we bought some bottles and took them back to Germany. There’s a really cosy farm café and arts shop next to the tasting room and farm shop, which is also totally worth a visit.
Where to camp:
Brighton and the South Downs
Brighton – also called London-by-the-sea – is the closest beach suburb to London. It’s a typical British seaside resort in so many ways but so much more in so many others. The pebbled beach features an amusement park as well as candy, fish & chips, ice cream and souvenir shops. The town is a mecca for quirky shops and people. The North Lanes in particular feature many vintage stores, pubs and healthy food options in colourful buildings and a vibrant atmosphere.
Not far from Brighton, the South Downs offer beautiful English countryside hiking with views for miles. The South Downs are a range of rolling chalk hills that extend for 670 km from the Itchen Valley in Hampshire to Beachy Head near Eastbourne in Sussex. Beachy Head, at 162 metres above sea level the highest chalk sea cliff in Britain, as well as the famous cliffs of the Seven Sisters further west, are famous features of the South Downs.
